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It's Not Easy Being Average
Would the real size 10 please stand up? Shewire's Jennifer King laments the reality of so-called standard sizes.


by Jennifer King | january 7, 2000

I despise shopping for clothes. It's fun for the first 30 minutes before I actually try anything on. Then, in the dressing room, the reject pile grows, despite that every piece is ostensibly labeled with my "size." I storm out in a deep blue funk — once again, I've wasted another day seeking a miracle: clothes that fit.

I'm average. At least, that's what the government wants me to believe. According to the U.S. Census Bureau, the average American woman is 5 feet, 4 inches tall and 142 pounds. At 5 foot 4 and one-quarter and 150 pounds (post Thanksgiving), I'm damn close.

Now, as an Average American Woman, I'm supposed to be the norm and everyone else the deviation. Clothes should fit me perfectly. Yeah, right. It's a rare day when a sleeve doesn't reach my knuckles, a pant leg doesn't brush the floor, or a pair of jeans in "my size" fail to slide past my wide hips.

Of course, this is a slight exaggeration. I do have things to wear — it's not as if I'm forced to go naked or wear togas. But why does nothing fit me — or anyone else, except tall, emaciated supermodels?

Part of the answer lies in how sizes are created. Apparently, we delicate females simply can't cope with seeing our real sizes, measured precisely in inches, on our clothes. Thus, we have numeric sizes, based upon the measurements of 10,000 female military members in 1942. Fifty-seven years later, we're all still wearing clothes sized according to what many of our grandmothers wore — that is, if your grandmother was primarily of European descent. It's no surprise that these measurements have become practically obsolete as American females have grown not only heavier, but also more ethnically diverse.

To accommodate these changes, the numbers on the sizing charts have shifted downwards to appease designer's desires for vanity sizing — or, sizing clothes so that yesterday's size 16 is now a size 10 or 12. A good thing, since our delicate constitutions make us less inclined to spend money on clothes when we perceive that we're a higher and thus less desirable size.

So, until someone is motivated to cover the cost of a new sizing survey, designers cater to the "abnormal" market by creating specialty sizes that are re-proportionments of the standard size 8 (most designers create for a "perfect" size 8 on the misses' 2-16 sizing scale) for petites, tall and women's sizes. (Juniors' sizes, 1-15, are cut for teenage girls, with narrower hips and a slimmer profile than misses sizes.)

Ta-da! That's how it works. Now, complicate the puzzle by adding designers that design the cut of their clothing to fit certain body types (like the tall, thin supermodel) and — Voila! We have a clothing nightmare.

This is a practice that extends within a single manufacturer's lines as well; for instance, while I can wear a size 10 at Old Navy, at the Gap, which owns Old Navy, I wear a 12. And Levis? Anywhere from a 12 to a 16. Arrrgh!

Part of the problem here is that you get what you pay for, particularly when it comes to clothes. The cheaper the product, the less attention to detail, from finish to fit. Why do you think superstars look so great at the Oscars every year? Guaranteed, if those gowns weren't handmade especially for them, at the minimum they were tailored for a custom fit.

Imagine how great you would look if you had a personal designer and tailor creating clothes designed to make you look your best. I could have button-down shirts that didn't gape open across my chest, pants that fit my hips and my waist, and skirts that didn't fall three or four inches past my knees.

But let's get real — short of spending money, I don't have on high-end couture clothing. What can I do? I don't want to spend $10 altering a $30 pair of jeans, let alone a $15 shirt. I'm too busy to break out my sewing machine to do my own tailoring. And since I live in cold, rainy San Francisco, there's no way in hell I'm protesting by becoming a nudist.

What's really ironic is that I know tall friends who wish they were my height, small friends that wish they had my full-figure, and other "normal" friends, both slimmer and heavier than I, who also have trouble finding anything that fits at all.

But alas, until designers finally acknowledge that "average" today is anything but average, at least we'll all look lousy together!


Jennifer King is a freelance writer and Web researcher living in Oakland, Calif., with her pet cat, Mars, and her pet husband, Adam. In her free time, she enjoys subverting the dominant paradigm and dreaming up ideas for her soon-to-be-developed Webzine, Knowitallgirl.

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